Tuesday, February 07, 2006

I am truly sorry for not updating sooner. The last six weeks has eaten up not just my energy, but my time as well. I never truly appreciated the slavery of a nine-to-five shift until I had to teach by one for an extended period of time. My life went from splitting my waking hours between teaching and living to revolving around teaching almost exclusivly. I would wake up early, work all day, and by the time I had made it home I was too exhausted to even think about things like uploading images or boiling down my thoughts for the blog. I look back at the past six weeks with wonder: I can't believe I updated at all.

Here are a few photos from the last week.

Helmets? Who needs helmets? Helmets are for little girly men (and their girly children).



What is truly odd about the above photo is how much Koreans seem to care about foreigners and helmet usuage. In the early days of my stay in Korea (I've only been here five months, so that's not too long ago), I rode for a little while on the back of Julie's motorcycle without a helmet. Yes, I know, that was fantastically stupid, especially when one considers how bad the driving is in Busan. No one pointed out my apparent deathwish with greater fervor than the Koreans themselves. It seemed like the driver or passenger (or both) in the cars and taxis that passed by Julie and I would be waving frantically and pointing at their heads.

"Helmut-uh! Helmet-uh!"

Julie's friend Robin got her helmet from a taxi driver. When they pulled up to a red light, he leapt from his cab, ran around to the trunk and pulled out a beat-up white construction helmet for her to wear. Satisfied, the good samaritan jumped back into the driver's seat of his taxi and returned to cutting people off, speeding, tailgating and generally endangering the lives of all those around him, helmet or no helmet.

Mr. Kim had a birthday. I didn't catch how old he turned, but he's been with the school since it's founding in the early 1960s. That's a lot of water under the bridge.



I finally got a free hour this past weekend and climbed Bongnaesan. It was a beautiful day, so clear you could see the outlying islands of Japan. I was gearing up to let loose a few 'primal screams' when this guy showed up. That's lens flare coming in from the left, the result of a cheesy Tiffan filter on the front of my 50mm. It kind of works, though.



Gavin and I took a trip to PNU for some reason, I forget what. Oh yeah, we went to shoot some footage for a movie on Busan that we are cobbling together. After shooting the footage on the train out to Nopo-dong (which means absolutly zilch to most people reading this), we set course for nowhere and ended up in PNU. Gavin and I have similar wandering habits: Set a general course, get distracted, wander off course, get distracted again, drink coffee, try to set a course again.

There isn't a lot to see here past the PC Bongs and Hofs. In PNU (Pusan National University), there is a nice running track that follows a massive drainage culvert parallel to the raised subway tracks. The buildings of PNU rise high above the little bridges and roads that cross the concrete creek. People travel the rubber footpath by foot or by wheel. It's pleasant.











Other folks turn the cold concrete walls into works of art with spraypaint. I think the government sanctions the projects, because the graffiti artists didn't seem the slightest bit unnerved by my camera or Gavin's inquizativness.







As you can tell, I didn't have a lot to say this past week. I'm saving the Korean files for next week, and I have a bunch more photos of the play rehearsals, but I'm going to wait until I have a little more energy and a bit more to say before I update again. Have a good night (or morning)! --Notes

PS--I have to make an amendment to last week's update. Kristen majored in Spanish while attending Northeastern University in Chicago. She is considering a speech pathology degree (post-grad). Sorry, K. I hope everything is correct, now. --N

Monday, January 30, 2006

all right, I got the Brandenburg Concerto rockin, a glass of (S)Hite sitting next to me and Gavin is distracted with his charcoal and drawing pad. Engage blog!

Before I got any further, ah-hm. The Korean Files!

"Biker Denim Speed Tested" (File this one under the ever-growing 'ouch' stack. Jacket.)

"The Semitol Leeching" (Are those even real words? Key ring.)

OK, part two of Ye Blog update is mostly photos. I guess that means I'm going to have a part three soon. Or maybe I'll just wait till next weekend to do an update. There's just so much to say and no energy to spend. The morning schedule is really taking its toll. Add to that the revelation via Gavin that Soju is nothing more than rice-flavored ethanol. Ethanol has many useful applications in our modern world. There are cars that run on pure ethanol, it's a great sanitizer, and with a freezing point lower than mercury, ethanol makes for a delightful antifreeze. I've been drinking this stuff. No wonder Makali Man shakes his head and waves a disapproving finger at me whenever I reached for the soju at the corner market. Don't drink that, man, it's bad news. I really shortchanged Makali Man. He's one of the smartest people I've met here.

I walked into ESS one day last week and found the 2E students lining the staircase with dictionaries in their hands. I figured correctly that this was one of Mr. Kim's ideas. Every two stairs for eight flights of stairs stood a student, pensively reading whatever page happened to fall under his or her thumb when the book was opened. Though these were the same students who had made forty-five minutes of my previous Friday pure hell, I still felt a pang of sympathy for these ridiculous flesh-and-blood monuments to zany leadership listlessly reading dictionaries in the freezing, dank stairwell.

Mr. Kim stood at the top of the stairs, beaming with pride, and immediately pressed me into documenting the odd, vaguely humiliating arrangement of the school's paying customers. Sure, I said. What living man could turn down an invitation to document outright buffoonery? My photos don't do the event justice. Check out Gavin's blog for better shots (his lens is wider than mine).





I spent part of Saturday shooting footage for an upcoming timelapse documentary of the Busan subway. Ever since I saw the movie "Baraka," I've been hot to get my paws on a camcorder. The problem is that to get five seconds of good timelapse you need to shoot about a half-hour of footage. This presents problems, the biggest one being simply finding time to kill loitering in a subway with a running camcorder. Being afflicted with ADD doesn't help, either. Luckily, I have started reading ridiculously long Russian novels (I'm currently plowing through Tolstoy's "Anna Karinina") and I still have my still camera to distract me.



The residents of Busan never have a problem killing time. Down time is nap time. I've seen people passed out in the middle of sidewalks, lobbies, subway 'meeting places,' and even in the middle of a mall. Exhibit A:



Over the weekend I also found time to spend with another American teacher name Kristen. She was very new to Busan and was wondering where all the other foreigners were. She contact me through this blog and we met at the Centum City subway terminal. We crossed the Gwang-ali bridge via taxi and went to Ole' 55 for dinner and a couple drinks. I shot some of the best pool of my life (which isn't saying much, sadly).



On Sunday Kristen and I took the subway to Seomyeon and wandered through the neighborhoods high up on the mountain circling the main commercial district. This weekend marked the Lunar New Year, and everywhere we went the Korean people were festooned in the bright, happy colors of their traditional dress: Hanbok. Don't pronounce the 'k.' Good, that's better.

Kristen and I did a lot of walking. Earlier in the week I bought a pedometer at a chun-un store for...chun-un (one U.S dollar). By the end of the day Sunday Kristen and I had put 15 miles and 25,000 some-odd steps on our feet. That's a lot of time to talk.

Kristen, a native of Chicago (pronounced 'Sh,' not 'Ch' for all you phonetics geeks out there) and a fan of strapping herself to a fiberglass board while being dragged around a lake behind a motorboat, had come to Busan only two weeks earlier. She worked for a small school in Suyoung with only a handful of Korean teachers and made pretty good money. A speech language pathology major in college, she is like many people in Busan: Searching for something. Is speech pathology the right path or should I make a turn and go down this teaching road? I know the feeling.

I figured a day of taking whatever path looked most interesting would probably do us both good. We went from Seomyeon to Daeyeon to the UN cemetery. We talked up and down a wide spectrum of topics. The presence of such an intelligent, engaging person was refreshing. Kristen is a much more experienced traveler than I, and I enjoyed hearing about her tenure living in Spain. By the time we parted at the Daeyeon subway terminal she had worn two blisters in her feet and my back screamed from lugging my tripod and camera gear around for two days. I was asleep before I hit the bed Sunday night and I didn't wake up till 10 AM the next morning. Consider this past weekend seized!



On Monday I was to meet my co-teacher, In-hye, and her twin-sister In-Gyeong in Haeundae and take the Mipo ferry out to Oryukdo to see the famous islets. But the weather was cloudy and so we made a dinner date in Nampo-dong. In-hye is tutoring me in Korean on Saturdays, and we've been getting to know one another in slow motion. She likes to swim and has dreams of working for UNICEF as a translator. So my weekly Korean lesson is also a chance for In-hye to polish her English.

You scratch my back and I'll scratch yours.

Over a spicy dinner of gochujang-BBQ'd chicken, the girls quizzed me in Korean, and I tinkered with their conversational English. I always take advantage of these informal Korean encounters to straighten-out bits of Korean culture that are vexing me. FOR example, Koreans have different words for sister and brother depending on who is speaking. If a younger brother wants to address his older sister, he calls her his Nuna. If he is addressing his younger sister, he calls her his yadongseng. An older brother is called a hyung, and a younger brother a namdongseng. 'Onee' is a term of endearment girls call their older sisters. This gets confusing, especially when you bring twins into the mix. How did In-hye and her sister In-Gyeong address one another? There's no straight-up word for 'sister.'

"She came out first," said In-hye, indicating In-Gyeong. "She is my 'onee.'"

Mystery number 1,674,978 cleared up. Onward.

Well, that's all I got for you right now. I've got to sit down and really study this script for the "Creation" play. I'm God, you know. Later. --Notes
OK, this is only part 1 of a two-part blog update. Much has happened this past week, but this first part will deal primarily with the happenings at ESS. Just to keep you interested, I am saving the Korean Files for tomorrow. Also, half the photographs will appear tomorrow as well. Please read on.

* * *

If you teach conditional sentences than be prepared for a few laughs. I taught my high school class about conditionals and had them practice by writing warning signs for their favorite movie characters. A few of my favorite responses:

"To Sauron: If you see Frodo, than you should kill him immediately."

"To Frodo: If you listen to Gollum, than you will die."

"To Neo: If you fight with Smith, thean you will win because you are the main actor."

"To Ariel: If you want to be human, than don't tell your father."

I lavish praise on students who lengthen their sentences using words like 'because.' It is a milestone when a student can explain 'why' or 'how,' and I make sure to encourage such behavior. As a general rule, the high school students tend to be the best English speakers in the school.

The high schoolers are much more open to creative activities. I try out all of my cutting-edge ideas on them first. Sometimes the ideas, such as writing warnings for movie characters, are a smash hit and I modify them for the younger, less skillful children in my other classes. Still, these are Korean children, and their concept of what constitutes teaching and learning is much different from mine. Sometimes my ideas are too far removed from what they're used to, and they balk. Much like a musical opus composed from the heart but written in conflict with the current paradigm, my radical ideas sometimes fall on deaf ears.

For example, a few weeks ago I started a project entitled, "Korean Wanted Posters." I would take the kids to a PC room where they would research famous Koreans and then put together a presentation for the class complete with visual elements. The entire project, from research to presentation, would be in English. By reading, comprehending and then communicating their new knowledge, I hoped the 'Wanted Posters' would be a powerful linguistic exercise.

What's more, they could be as creative as they wanted in their visual material. I made a Korean merchant very happy last weekend when I bought nearly twenty dollars worth of art supplies for this project. I filled a bag with colored paper, pastel pencils and stickers and walked triumphantly back to ESS. I was sure they'd be psyched.

When I finished explaining the project to the class I was met with something between apathy and confusion.

"We're going to a PC bong?" One girl asked as if I were crazy. As we walked through Nampo-dong, I got the feeling that they didn't understand where I was coming from. When they discovered that I had spent my own money on the project, their confusion only grew deeper. "Teacher, why?" The same girl asked me.

Oddly, when I flew the 'Wanted Posters' past my 12-year-old Special Class, they jumped at the idea.

* * *

ESS has begun the theatrical production of the Christian creation myth. The tryouts are through, the cast chosen, and a director brought in to turn words on paper into people on stage. As I said earlier, Mr. Kim chose Gavin and I to play God. We both have four acts each, with about twenty lines to memorize. Since God is the central figure in the creation myth, I consider this a slight against the children. I can name at least three students who deserve to play God for than I, all women (who speak the best English). Or maybe I just don't want to be center stage...

The script is at a fourth-grade reading level. Upon looking it over, I discovered that the play comes to it's conclusion just in time to avoid loosing paradise. I guess 'Original Sin' is just too racy for Mr. Kim. What a pity. I was looking forward to smiting a few Best Jr. students. Here is 'Land' getting ready for his part. He's one of only two boys whom I've seen in the play.



The rehearsals happen every day after school and last a couple of hours. I spend some of the time helping the students with their lines. The hardest word in the script is 'reflection,' when is spoken by the Sky, a skinny girl in my 1S class. The Korean word for 'reflection' is 'Bansa,' and so every time I see The Sky walking down the hall, I say "bansa," and she answers back "reflection." If she gets it wrong I stop her in the hall and make her repeat 'reflection' until it's correct.

What I like most about the play is the chance to help the students with expression. Every week I listen to recordings of the Best Jr. students reading from their book. The number one problem with their reading skills is, of course, pronunciation. The second biggest problems are punctuation and expression.

No one teaches the students punctuation, so the average reader motors through paragraphs like a runaway locomotive through a trainyard. With the glorious exception of a precious few students, most students read sentences like "Wow! I can't believe you are our student representative!" without regard for the quotation or exclamation marks. It makes for good comedy, and I can't suppress a chuckle while listening to the tapes.

The theater is no place for such unintentional deadpan. These kids need to know two things: First, what they're saying, and second, what it means. Because it's theater, the kids are also fighting their shyness in front of their peers. They need to know it's OK to be expressive. Being expressive is what Tiggers do best. Tiggers like me.

When the director calls me on stage to 'let their be light,' I turn into a expression machine, conveying the meaning of my lines with not just the tone and volume of my voice, but how I hold my face and body, too. Most of the students giggle nervously when I slowly let the line rumble forth from deep within my stomach as I broadly sweep the air with my hands and raise my eyebrows high as if the universe were springing forth from my chalk-stained fingers.

I don't have any good photos of myself as yet, but rest assured, they're on the way. Gavin gets a kick out of my onstage antics, and he's a masterful photographer. Oh yes, the photos will come.

My favorite part of the play actually isn't on stage: The Korean drumline. As the first-year students are the actors, the third-year students are the orchestra, and this orchestra is nearly all percussion. I enjoy listening to them practice. Their teacher is a warm, patient man who has dedicated his life to studying, practicing and teaching traditional Korean musician.

The children are divided into three sections: Bells and two types of snare-style drums. The teacher keeps time with a brass bell balanced on his hand. After guiding each instrumental section through their part in the whole piece, he brings them together. The cacaophony that fills the small, accoustically poor room is like the sound of creation itself. First there is only chaos as the students strike their instruments shyly, their minds on each other. However, the steady ring of the teacher's bell focuses their minds on the music and a melody slowly coalesces from nothingness like the land springing from the water. Even in its organized form, the symphony of drums is every bit of it's 6000 year heritage, an ancient and earthy body-shaking sound that crowds out all thought and sets my heart ablaze with emotion. A few photos:













* * *

I came across Gyoo-tae and his friend Jae-hyung working on a quiz by the teacher's office Thursday. Both boys are in my 4B class, and so I asked them why they were working a test in the middle of the hall. They shrugged their shoulders. Ask Mrs. Choi, they said. She's the one who put us here. Oh, and do you have an eraser, Mr. Jones?

An eraser? Sure I have an eraser, I said, reaching into my pocket. Just then Soo-hee came up the stairs. She asked me what I was doing and I told her. No, she said, they can't have an eraser.

Perplexed, I followed her into the office and inquired about this bizarre rule. She didn't know. It was Mr. Kim's rule. A child should think through his answer before writing it down, she said. I found this to be a little harsh and said as much. Soo-hee sighed and told me she agreed, but that was what Mr. Kims, so she wasn't about to argue it any further.

On the way out to my next class I clandestinly gave Jae-hyung my eraser.

Well, it's 12AM and I need to sleep. Like I said, there is a lot more on my mind, but to sit here and write it would mean I'd be a zombie in class tomorrow, and nobody likes being taught English by the living dead. So good-night! --Notes

PS--If you find any spelling or grammatical mistakes, please clue me in with an email or comment.

Thursday, January 26, 2006

For those of you who don't know him, Gavin Averill is my current co-native teacher at ESS. He was also my co-worker at the Hattiesburg American last year where we both worked as photojournalists. Among his many talents are both photography and writing. If you have not checked out his page of photographs from Hurricane Katrina, you should do so. Cut and paste the following.

http://www.gavinaverill.com/Pages_PhotoJ/katrina%20gallery02/index.htm

And if you like what you see there, you need to check out his new blog, Mula, at this URL:

http://homepage.mac.com/gavinaverill1/Personal3.html

And the Korea photo page at:

http://homepage.mac.com/gavinaverill1/PhotoAlbum4.html

It's good stuff. Also, Gavin sees things that I miss, so it's a different perspective on Korea, and everybody should look at the world through more than one pair of eyes. Later. --Notes